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Where to eat well, from local institutions to the place worth the detour, each with a last-verified date.

10 Days in Bali · fine-dining

Locavore NXT

The relocated flagship of Bali’s best-known fine-dining kitchen, built on Indonesian ingredients and fermentation. Book well ahead.

10 Days in Bali · casual

Motel Mexicola

A loud, colourful Mexican party spot near Petitenget; more scene than temple of gastronomy, but a Seminyak fixture.

10 Days in Bali · sunset-venue

Potato Head Beach Club

The landmark grass-amphitheatre beach club on Petitenget Beach; a cover charge applies in the sunset window and is redeemable against drinks.

10 Days in Thailand · institution

Thipsamai

Bangkok’s best-known pad thai specialist since the 1960s, famous for the prawn-wrapped omelette version; recognized by the Michelin Guide.

10 Days in Thailand · market

Chiang Mai Sunday Walking Street

A Sunday-evening market that closes the main Old City street to traffic, with food stalls, crafts and music; the easiest introduction to northern eating.

10 Days in Thailand · street-food

Chinatown (Yaowarat) street food

Bangkok’s Chinatown main street lights up after dark with wok stalls, seafood grills and dessert carts; go hungry and share plates.

10 Days in Vietnam · institution

Bun Cha Huong Lien

The bun cha spot where Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain ate in 2016; the table is now preserved and the restaurant is Michelin Guide listed.

10 Days in Vietnam · institution

Banh Mi Phuong

The Hoi An banh mi shop made internationally famous after Anthony Bourdain featured it; expect a queue.

10 Days in Vietnam · market

Ben Thanh street food stalls

The stalls in and around Ben Thanh Market are an easy first taste of southern street food; the night market outside is livelier.

Amalfi Coast · institution

Da Vincenzo

Opened by grandfather Vincenzo in 1958, now run by his grandson; a steady, unpretentious counterpoint to Positano’s pricier tourist-facing spots.

Amalfi Coast · institution

Ristorante Marina Grande

Began as a seaside bar in 1918 and sits directly on Amalfi’s main beach, specializing in fish-based dishes.

Athens · institution

Platanos Taverna

Operating in Plaka since 1932, under its namesake plane tree; moussaka, dolmades and roast lamb done the traditional way.

Athens · casual

Karamanlidika tou Fani

Part delicatessen, part restaurant, built around the Karamanlides cuisine of Greeks from Asia Minor: cured meats, aged cheeses and meze plates.

Athens · street-food

O Thanasis

Grilling kebab and souvlaki beside Monastiraki Square since 1967; a standing Athens institution for a cheap, fast meal.

Bangkok · street-food

Jay Fai

A single-Michelin-starred street food stall known for its crab omelette and drunken noodles; expect a long wait and prices well above typical street food.

Bangkok · institution

Thipsamai

Bangkok’s best-known pad thai specialist since the 1960s, famous for the prawn-wrapped omelette version; several newer branches exist around the city.

Bangkok · sunset-venue

Sky Bar by lebua

A 63rd-floor open-air rooftop bar over the Chao Phraya, made famous by "The Hangover Part II"; smart dress code enforced.

Barcelona · market

Mercat de la Boqueria

Barcelona’s largest and most famous covered market, with tapas counters as well as produce stalls; arrive before noon to beat the tour groups.

Barcelona · institution

Els Quatre Gats

The turn-of-the-century café where a young Picasso held his first exhibition; now a traditional restaurant trading on that history.

Barcelona · bar

Vermuteria del Tano

A small, unpretentious Gràcia vermouth bar, standing room mostly, for the pre-lunch local ritual.

California Coast Road Trip: Highway 1, San Francisco to Los Angeles · institution

Nepenthe

Open since 1949 on a cliff over the south coast; California and Mediterranean plates, best timed for the terrace view. Expect a wait midday.

California Coast Road Trip: Highway 1, San Francisco to Los Angeles · modern

The Lark

In a former fish market in the Funk Zone, with a Santa Barbara County-forward wine list and seasonal small plates. Book ahead.

California Coast Road Trip: Highway 1, San Francisco to Los Angeles · casual

Flaherty’s Seafood Grill & Oyster Bar

A long-running Carmel seafood spot for oysters and local fish, a reliable stop before heading south into Big Sur.

Cape Town & the Winelands · fine-dining

La Colombe

A long-running, internationally awarded fine-dining room on the Silvermist Wine Estate above the Constantia Valley. Closes annually for a winter break; check dates before booking.

Cape Town & the Winelands · casual

Protégé (Le Quartier Français)

The more casual of Le Quartier Français’s two restaurants, in the centre of the village; a good option after a morning of wine tasting.

Cappadocia · casual

Seten Restaurant

A long-standing Uçhisar restaurant serving regional dishes including testi kebabı with valley views.

Cappadocia · casual

Topdeck Cave Restaurant

A Göreme restaurant serving in an actual carved cave space, popular for the pottery-kebab breaking ritual.

Cappadocia · modern

Ziggy’s Cafe & Restaurant

A well-regarded restaurant near Ürgüp combining Cappadocian ingredients with a more contemporary presentation.

Corfu · fine-dining

Venetian Well

A romantic courtyard around a Venetian wellhead; changing, ambitious menu. Book ahead.

Corfu · institution

Rex

A long-running institution just behind the Liston; the reliable place to try the island classics.

Corfu · institution

Taverna Agni (Agni Bay)

One of three tavernas on a tiny northeast cove; the classic long seaside lunch. Many arrive by small boat.

Crete · institution

Tamam

Housed in a former 15th-century Venetian hammam just off the harbour, open since 1982; Cretan dishes alongside Ottoman-influenced sharing plates.

Crete · fine-dining

Peskesi

Set in a restored historic mansion in central Heraklion, sourcing much of its produce from its own organic farm; built around forgotten Cretan recipes and ingredients.

Crete · fine-dining

Veneto Restaurant

The on-site restaurant of the Veneto Boutique Hotel, in a former 15th-century monastery building; runs seasonally, roughly May to October.

Crete · institution

Nikos Fish Tavern

A family fish taverna on Elounda’s village square, running since 1972, sourcing daily catch from local boats.

Dubai · casual

Arabian Tea House

A courtyard cafe inside a restored heritage house serving Emirati breakfasts and karak chai; a good stop between the souks.

Dubai · fine-dining

Ossiano, Atlantis The Palm

A seafood-focused fine-dining restaurant set against a floor-to-ceiling aquarium window inside Atlantis, The Palm.

Dubai · institution

Ravi Restaurant

A long-running, famously cheap Pakistani restaurant popular with Dubai residents of all backgrounds; grilled meats, curries and fresh naan.

Fiji · casual

Resort dining, Mamanucas and Yasawas

On small islands, dining is at your resort; many serve the daily catch and run a weekly lovo night with a cultural show.

Fiji · fine-dining

Fijiana Restaurant, Likuliku

The signature restaurant at Likuliku Lagoon Resort, known for fresh, locally caught seafood in a lagoon setting.

Fiji · casual

Port Denarau marina dining

The marina at Port Denarau has the widest choice of independent restaurants and bars before you head to the islands.

French Riviera (Cote d'Azur) · institution

La Merenda

Run by chef Dominique Le Stanc, a former head chef at Le Negresco’s Chantecler; more than sixty years of Nicoise cooking, no phone, no card payments, cash and a queue.

French Riviera (Cote d'Azur) · institution

Chez Pipo

Founded in 1933 and cooking socca on one of the city’s oldest ovens; a straightforward, no-frills place built entirely around the dish.

French Riviera (Cote d'Azur) · fine-dining

La Petite Maison

A long-established address favoured by locals and visiting VIPs alike for Mediterranean and Nicoise dishes; reviews on service are mixed, book ahead regardless.

Great Barrier Reef & Cairns · casual

Prawn Star

A working prawn trawler moored at the marina that sells and serves its own catch; an informal Cairns institution.

Great Barrier Reef & Cairns · modern

Ochre Restaurant

A long-running Cairns restaurant built around native Australian ingredients such as crocodile, kangaroo and native spices, alongside reef seafood.

Great Barrier Reef & Cairns · institution

Salsa Bar & Grill

A Port Douglas institution on Macrossan Street, serving reef fish and modern Australian dishes for decades.

Greece in 10 Days: Athens, Mykonos & Santorini · institution

Diporto Agoras

A no-sign basement taverna operating near the Central Market since 1887, with two doors (hence the name) and a short, unchanging menu of horiatiki, gigantes and the day’s stew.

Greece in 10 Days: Athens, Mykonos & Santorini · fine-dining

Interni

A garden restaurant in the Matoyiannia lanes, running as a dinner-into-nightlife destination since 2000; Mediterranean cooking with cocktails and music later in the evening.

Greece in 10 Days: Athens, Mykonos & Santorini · casual

Kiki’s Tavern

A no-website, no-phone, no-reservations shack behind Agios Sostis beach on the island’s quieter north coast; arrive well before opening, since it closes once the food runs out for the day.

Greece in 10 Days: Athens, Mykonos & Santorini · fine-dining

Kapari Wine Restaurant

A courtyard restaurant within a small Imerovigli hotel, overlooking the caldera cliffs, with a contemporary Mediterranean menu built around Santorini produce and wine.

Hoi An · institution

Banh Mi Phuong

The banh mi shop made internationally famous after Anthony Bourdain featured it; expect a queue at peak times.

Hoi An · market

Hoi An Central Market food stalls

The market kitchens are where locals eat the Hoi An classics for a fraction of restaurant prices.

Hoi An · modern

Morning Glory

A well-known Ancient Town restaurant serving refined versions of the local street dishes, with an associated cooking school.

Hokkaido · institution

Sapporo Beer Garden

A long-running all-you-can-eat jingisukan and beer hall inside the historic brewery grounds.

Hokkaido · market

Nijo Market

A compact fish market a short walk from Odori Park, with stalls and small seafood-rice-bowl counters.

Hokkaido · cafe

Furano Cheese Kobo

A small local dairy and cheese workshop with a soft-serve stand, a popular break on the Furano/Biei route.

Istanbul · modern

Karaköy Lokantası

A blue-and-white-tiled dining room serving refined versions of home-style Turkish dishes.

Istanbul · institution

Hamdi Restaurant

A long-running kebab house near the Spice Bazaar with rooftop seating over the water.

Istanbul · institution

Çiya Sofrası

A Kadıköy institution rotating dishes from across Turkey’s regions, often cited as one of the city’s most serious kitchens.

Kenya-Tanzania Safari Route · modern

Four Seasons Safari Lodge dining

Several dining venues at a full-service lodge overlooking a Serengeti waterhole.

Kenya-Tanzania Safari Route · casual

Ngorongoro Serena crater-rim dining

Full-board dining as part of a crater-rim stay, with layers advised for cold evenings.

Kenya-Tanzania Safari Route · casual

Governors’ Camp bush breakfast

Bush breakfasts and full-board meals at a riverfront Mara camp.

Koh Samui · fine-dining

KOH Thai Kitchen

The signature Thai restaurant at Four Seasons Koh Samui, serving curries and seafood with bay views; book ahead.

Koh Samui · market

Fisherman’s Village Walking Street

A Friday-evening street market along the Bophut shophouses with food stalls, crafts and music; the easiest introduction to Samui street eating.

Koh Samui · casual

Lamai seafood and local eateries

The Lamai strip has long-running local restaurants for gaeng som and fresh grilled seafood away from the resort dining rooms.

Kyoto · street-food

Nishiki Market food stalls

A working market street where visitors can sample pickles, skewers, tofu sweets and seafood from stall to stall.

Kyoto · fine-dining

Kikunoi

A kaiseki restaurant with over a century of history in Higashiyama, led by a third-generation chef; among Kyoto’s most internationally recognized kaiseki houses.

Kyoto · institution

Omen (Ginkaku-ji Honten)

A long-running udon restaurant near Ginkaku-ji, serving thick house-made noodles with a seasonal-vegetable dipping sauce since 1967.

Lisbon · bakery

Pasteis de Belem

Baking to the same secret recipe since 1837; expect a queue but a fast-moving one for takeaway.

Lisbon · market

Time Out Market Lisboa

A curated food hall of Lisbon chefs and stalls inside the historic Mercado da Ribeira; busy at peak meal times.

Lisbon · institution

Cervejaria Ramiro

A no-frills but famous shellfish hall since 1956; expect a wait and a deposit required for larger bookings.

Madrid · institution

Sobrino de Botin

Opened in 1725 and recognized by Guinness World Records as the oldest restaurant in the world; the wood-fired oven is original.

Madrid · market

Mercado de San Miguel

A restored early-20th-century iron-framed market hall turned gourmet tapas market; touristy and priced accordingly.

Madrid · institution

Chocolateria San Gines

Open since 1894 and open 24 hours; the classic stop after a night out or before an early flight.

Maldives Overwater Villas · fine-dining

Ithaa Undersea Restaurant

Advance reservations are essential; the glass-domed room seats only 14 guests, 5 metres below the surface.

Maldives Overwater Villas · fine-dining

Soneva Fushi dining program

Six restaurants across the island, including overwater and treehouse settings; the observatory and open-air cinema double as evening venues.

Maldives Overwater Villas · street-food

Local-island short eats cafes (e.g. Dharavandhoo, Maafushi)

Resorts near inhabited islands often arrange a local-island excursion; small tea shops serve hedhikaa and garudhiya at a fraction of resort prices.

Miami · institution

Versailles Restaurant

Founded in 1971 on Calle Ocho and billed as the world’s most famous Cuban restaurant; a gathering place for the Cuban exile community.

Miami · institution

Joe’s Stone Crab

A Miami Beach institution since 1913 and still family-run; the restaurant most associated with Florida stone crab. Expect a wait in season.

Miami · bar

Ball & Chain

A restored live-music bar on Calle Ocho whose original 1935 venue hosted Billie Holiday and Count Basie; reopened in 2014 with nightly music.

Morocco: Marrakech, Sahara & Chefchaouen · modern

Nomad

A rooftop restaurant in the souks reworking Moroccan dishes with a lighter, contemporary style; popular, so book ahead for sunset seating.

Morocco: Marrakech, Sahara & Chefchaouen · institution

Casa Hassan restaurant

The in-house restaurant of one of Chefchaouen’s oldest riads; straightforward tagines and local dishes.

Morocco: Marrakech, Sahara & Chefchaouen · street-food

Jemaa el-Fna food stalls

Numbered stalls set up nightly serving grilled meats, snails, soups and orange juice; pick a busy stall and confirm prices before ordering.

Mykonos · institution

Sea Satin Market

Tucked beneath the Kato Mili windmills and just steps from Little Venice, open since 1990, with tables so close to the sea that waves reach the windows in rough weather.

Mykonos · institution

Nikolas Taverna

A family seafood taverna on the sand at Agia Anna, run by the same family since 1967; grilled fish and simple Greek plates in a relaxed, unpretentious setting.

Mykonos · institution

Kiki’s Tavern

A no-reservations, no-electricity taverna above a small northern cove; arrive early, wait on the benches (a free glass of wine is customary), and swim in the cove while you wait.

New York City · institution

Katz’s Delicatessen

Cafeteria-style ordering with a ticket system; expect a line and a loud, chaotic dining room. Cash tips for the counter carvers are customary.

New York City · institution

Russ & Daughters

A century-old appetizing store; the sit-down cafe a few blocks away serves the same menu if the original counter has a line.

New York City · bakery

Levain Bakery

A small basement bakery on 74th Street; expect a short line for the famously dense cookies.

Paris · institution

Chez Janou

A long-running Marais bistro with a sunny courtyard terrace and an enormous chocolate-mousse bowl for dessert.

Paris · market

Marché des Enfants Rouges

Paris’s oldest covered market, dating to the 17th century, with stalls covering Moroccan, Japanese and French cooking side by side.

Paris · cafe

Café de Flore

The famous Left Bank cafe once frequented by Sartre and de Beauvoir; go for the atmosphere and a coffee, not for value.

Peru: Cusco & Machu Picchu · fine-dining

Cicciolina

A long-running Cusco gastronomic reference with a tapas bar and dining room. Book ahead.

Peru: Cusco & Machu Picchu · fine-dining

MAP Café

A glass-walled dining room in the courtyard of the Museo de Arte Precolombino.

Peru: Cusco & Machu Picchu · modern

Chicha por Gastón Acurio

Chef Gastón Acurio’s Cusco restaurant focused on seasonal regional produce, a block from the Plaza de Armas.

Phuket · institution

Mee Ton Poe

A Hokkien Mee institution serving since the 1940s and recognized by the Michelin Guide; the reliable place to try the island’s signature noodles.

Phuket · fine-dining

PRU

A Michelin-starred farm-to-table restaurant at Trisara, sourcing from its own farm; book well ahead.

Phuket · market

Lard Yai (Sunday Walking Street)

A Sunday-evening street market along Thalang Road, closing the road to traffic for food stalls, crafts and music.

Queenstown · institution

Fergburger

Open from early morning to the small hours; expect a queue, and consider ordering ahead if the app or phone-order option is available.

Queenstown · fine-dining

Rātā

A Michelin-recognised restaurant from chef Josh Emett built around seasonal New Zealand produce; book well ahead.

Queenstown · institution

Stratosfare Restaurant & Bar

A buffet restaurant at the top of the Skyline Gondola with panoramic views over the lake and Remarkables; the gondola fare is included in the dining ticket.

Rajasthan Golden Triangle · fine-dining

Suvarna Mahal

Royal-court cooking from Rajasthan, Awadh, Punjab and Hyderabad in a gilded dining room. Book ahead.

Rajasthan Golden Triangle · institution

Chokhi Dhani

A recreated Rajasthani village resort serving thalis alongside folk music, dance and crafts.

Rajasthan Golden Triangle · street-food

Old Delhi street food (Chandni Chowk)

The lanes around Chandni Chowk are the classic street-food crawl; choose busy, freshly cooked stalls.

Rome · institution

Roscioli

A deli-restaurant-wine cellar hybrid on Via dei Giubbonari, running since 1824 in its current form since 2002; book ahead.

Rome · institution

Armando al Pantheon

Run by the same Gargioli family since 1961, now the third generation; reservations are online only.

Rome · institution

Da Enzo al 29

A small, always-busy trattoria on Via dei Vascellari; go right at opening to avoid the wait.

San Francisco and Napa Valley · fine-dining

The French Laundry

Thomas Keller’s multi-Michelin-star restaurant serving nine-course tasting menus; reservations open months ahead and go fast.

San Francisco and Napa Valley · institution

La Taqueria

A James Beard "America’s Classic" taqueria on Mission Street, widely cited among the best burritos in the country.

San Francisco and Napa Valley · institution

Swan Oyster Depot

A tiny counter-only raw bar and seafood institution; cash-friendly, no reservations, expect a line. It has no official website.

Santorini · fine-dining

Selene

A long-running fine-dining name on the island, now based in the quieter hilltop village of Pyrgos; a creative menu built around Santorini’s own produce and wines.

Santorini · institution

Ammoudi Bay tavernas

A cluster of fish tavernas right on the small harbour below Oia, reached by a few hundred steps down the cliff; a classic long seafood lunch away from the crowds above.

Santorini · institution

Metaxi Mas

A well-established taverna in a quiet inland village, known for fava, tomatokeftedes and other island classics done well.

Seminyak · casual

Motel Mexicola

A loud, colourful Mexican party spot near Petitenget; more scene than temple of gastronomy, but a long-running Seminyak fixture.

Seminyak · sunset-venue

Potato Head Beach Club

The landmark grass-amphitheatre beach club; a cover charge applies in the sunset window and is redeemable against drinks.

Seminyak · casual

Beachfront seafood warungs

The beanbag warungs along the sand grill fresh seafood and serve cold drinks as the sun drops; the quintessential Seminyak sunset meal.

Seoul · market

Gwangjang Market food stalls

A dense alley of stalls inside one of Seoul’s oldest markets; go hungry and share several small plates.

Seoul · street-food

Myeongdong street food stalls

A dense strip of food carts through the main Myeongdong shopping streets, busiest in the evening.

Seoul · institution

Tosokchon Samgyetang

A long-running samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup) restaurant in a traditional hanok building close to the palace area.

Sicily · institution

Antica Focacceria San Francesco

Founded in 1834 in a former chapel; the birthplace of Palermo’s spleen sandwich and a long-running symbol of the city’s street-food culture.

Sicily · bakery

Caffè Sicilia

A pasticceria founded in 1892 on Noto’s main street, run since 1985 by Corrado Assenza, known for reviving heirloom almond and pistachio varieties in traditional Sicilian sweets.

Sicily · institution

Osteria Antica Marina

A long-running seafood trattoria beside Catania’s Pescheria fish market, serving the day’s catch; reservations recommended, especially for lunch.

Singapore · market

Maxwell Food Centre

One of Singapore’s best-known hawker centers, with dozens of stalls including long-running chicken rice and porridge vendors.

Singapore · market

Lau Pa Sat

A restored Victorian-era cast-iron market building in the CBD, with an outdoor satay street that comes alive in the evenings.

Singapore · institution

Jumbo Seafood

A long-established Singapore chilli-crab institution with several riverside and East Coast locations.

Sri Lanka Round Trip · fine-dining

Ministry of Crab, Colombo

A well-known Colombo restaurant built around Sri Lankan lagoon crab, set in a converted Dutch-era building.

Sri Lanka Round Trip · institution

The Kandy House kitchen

A restored ancestral manor house near Kandy known for home-style Sri Lankan rice and curry meals.

Sri Lanka Round Trip · casual

Galle Fort cafes and restaurants

The Fort’s narrow streets hold a concentration of cafes and small restaurants mixing Sri Lankan and international menus.

Sydney · fine-dining

Bennelong

Set inside one of the Opera House’s sails, with a menu built around native Australian produce. Book well ahead.

Sydney · market

Sydney Fish Market

One of the largest fish markets in the Southern Hemisphere; buy fresh or eat at the on-site casual seafood counters.

Sydney · cafe

bills Darlinghurst

The original cafe from chef Bill Granger, credited with popularising the modern Australian brunch style now exported worldwide.

Tokyo · street-food

Tsukiji Outer Market food stalls

Dozens of stalls selling fresh sushi, grilled skewers and tamagoyaki on sticks; busiest and freshest before noon.

Tokyo · institution

Ichiran

A nationwide tonkotsu ramen chain known for individual booth seating and a customizable order form; a safe, no-language-barrier introduction to ramen.

Tokyo · modern

Afuri

Known for a clear, yuzu-citrus-inflected shoyu ramen, a lighter contrast to tonkotsu shops.

Tuscany · institution

Regina Bistecca

A steakhouse near the Duomo specializing in charcoal-grilled Chianina IGP bistecca alla fiorentina, in a space that was previously a long-running antiquarian bookshop.

Tuscany · institution

Osteria dell’Acquacheta

A well-known Montepulciano osteria known for its charcoal-grilled bistecca, presented and cut tableside; reservations are recommended well ahead.

Tuscany · institution

Antica Trattoria Papei

A long-established trattoria just off Piazza del Campo, serving Sienese staples including pici and ribollita.

Two Weeks in Japan · market

Tsukiji Outer Market

The retail and food-stall market that remains after the wholesale auction moved to Toyosu; arrive early for the shortest lines.

Two Weeks in Japan · casual

Ichiran Ramen

A tonkotsu ramen chain with individual ordering booths; consistent quality across every city on this route.

Two Weeks in Japan · market

Nishiki Market

A roughly 400-meter covered market street of small food stalls, known locally as "Kyoto’s kitchen."

Two Weeks in New Zealand · casual

RealNZ Milford Sound cruise dining

Cruises through Milford Sound with onboard refreshments; the operator also runs Doubtful Sound and Queenstown experiences.

Two Weeks in New Zealand · casual

Marlborough cellar-door lunches

Many Marlborough wineries near Blenheim pair Sauvignon Blanc with vineyard restaurant lunches; ideal after the ferry crossing.

Two Weeks in New Zealand · institution

Fergburger, Queenstown

A famously popular Queenstown burger joint; queues are part of the experience.

Ubud · fine-dining

Locavore NXT

The relocated flagship of Bali’s best-known fine-dining kitchen, built on Indonesian ingredients and fermentation. Book well ahead.

Ubud · institution

Ibu Oka style babi guling warung

Ubud is known for its babi guling warungs near the palace; go at lunch, as the roast pork often sells out by mid-afternoon.

Ubud · cafe

Ubud wellness and vegan cafés

Ubud has Bali’s densest cluster of plant-based and raw cafés; the Jalan Gootama and Penestanan areas are the heart of it.

Zanzibar · sunset-venue

The Rock Restaurant

Book ahead, especially for a table timed around the tide crossing.

Zanzibar · street-food

Forodhani Gardens night market

A waterfront gathering of food stalls that opens each evening; go hungry and share several stalls.

Zanzibar · casual

Lukmaan Restaurant

A long-running, no-frills local restaurant serving biryani, pilau and curries near the old town market.